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   Dates Price per Person Availability Enquire
   17 Dec 2017 80 €
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Winter Ascent of Peak Zlia Zub

Winter Ascent of Peak Zlia ZubWinter Ascent of Peak Zlia ZubWinter Ascent of Peak Zlia Zub

Winter ascent of peak Zlia Zub via The South Ridge



( 42.172474 N, 23.384903 E )
  • 80 €

  • 2678 m

  • Beginners

  • PD Moderate
    French Alpine Grade (PD)

    Routes may be longer at altitude, with snow and ice slopes up to 45 degrees. Glaciers are more complex, scrambling is harder, descent may involve rappelling. More objective hazards.
    Physical Endurance

    Moderate (8-11 hours)

  • 1 day

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Winter Ascent of Peak Zlia Zub

We offer winter ascent of peak Zlia Zub via The South Ridge. It is an unforgettable winter adventure, which will allow you to get in touch with one of the most difficult to access and also most beautiful alpine regions in Bulgaria.

Peak Zlia Zub and its South Face seen from the col between it and Peak Orlovets


Per person for minimum 4 clients - 80 €

The group is maximum 5 people.

The Price Includes

- Professional mountain guide;
- The necessary technical gear for securing the climb.

The Price Does Not Include

- Food;
- Personal equipment such as - harness, ice axe, helmet and carabiners;
- Stay in hotel / hut;
- Transport.

Just before the peak with a view to Peak Orlovets

Just before the peak with a view to Peak Orlovets


The group will gather at Malyovitsa hotel at 6 a.m. or in Malyovitsa hut at 7 a.m. By your preference you can spend the night at either of both places.

From the hut starts a comparatively easy path going up to First and Second Terrace. From Second Terrace we will start a steep ascent by the Northwest slopes of Peak Kamilata, which will lead us to the circus under the North Face of Peak Zlia Zub and Peak Orlovets. There we will take a short rest, during which we will put on crampons, harnesses and helmets. From here on our way goes on straight through the gulley between Zlia Zub and Orlovets. For safety reasons we will pass the dangerous areas before the col one by one. When we reach the col we will tie to the rope and in order to reach the South Ridge, we will traverse under the South Face of Zlia Zub. The next 20 meters are the most difficult part of our route, but also the most beautiful. After we climb this rocky section we will reach the top by a slant snowy crest.

We will descent the same way. If people in the group are well prepared and the snow conditions allow it, we will reach Malyovitsa hut in the early afternoon.

On top of Peak Zlia zub

On top of Peak Zlia zub

Best Season

December, January, February & March


- Very good physical training;
- Mountain health insurance, valid for the duration of the climb;
- Previous winter mountaineering experience;
- Experience with crampons walking and self-arresting techniques with ice axe on steep icy slope;
- Basic skills in handling climbing gear;

If you lack previous winter mountain experience you should consider taking pat in one the following programs before participating in the current one:

- Northeast Ridge of Malyovitsa
- Botev Peak
- The Musala Traverse via Trionite
- Mountaineering Course

On the way dawn

On the way dawn

Personal Equipment

- Crampons;
- Ice Axe;
- Winter Mountaineering Shoes;
- Proper Hat;
- Woolen Gloves– 2 pairs (one pair can be polartech or windstopper).
- Gore-Tex Gloves;
- Gore-Tex / Softshell Jacket;
- Polartech Jacket;
- Thermal Underwear;
- Gore-Tex Trousers;
- Gaiters;
- Climbing Backpack up to 45 l;
- Helmet;
- Headlamp;
- Sun Glasses;
- Climbing Harness;
- Locking Carabiner;
- Snowshoes (only if all people in the group have such);
- Walking Poles.

On the top

On the top


Participating in this program can serve as training for more technically difficult winter ascents and longer traverses such as:

- Vihren Peak via Djamdjiev Ridge
- Peak Dvuglav

as well as for summer ascents of peaks with higher altitude e.g.:

- Mont Blanc via Gouter Route
- Grossglokner
- Mönch and Jungfrau

Climbing peak Zlia Zub is recommended as a tird step in gaining the necessary experience for participating in the other winter programs, offered by Vertical World Bulgaria, and is an excellent opportunity for testing one’s abilities and personal equipment in the beginning of the active winter season.

On the South Ridge

On the South Ridge

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Winter Ascent of Peak Zlia Zub

   Dates Guide Price per Person Availability
   17 Dec 2017 D. Koleshev 80 €
   ( Bookings accepted no later than 2 Dec 2017 year )
Book Now
Rating: ( votes)
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Mountaineering   »   Europe   »   Bulgaria   »   Rila   »   Govedartsi Viewed 11252 times

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